In the footsteps of Mary Magdalene at Sainte-Baume
Mary Magdalene is undoubtedly one of the most fascinating spiritual figures of the last 2,000 years. A woman of passion, faith and courage, she has lived on through the centuries, embodying a mysterious grace. Her story has been transformed over time, shaped by faith, tradition and imagination.
When the men, seized by fear, abandoned Christ, Mary Magdalene, Jesus' friend, remained and stayed faithful. At the foot of the cross, she witnessed the torment of the crucifixion, then the burial. Stunned by the empty tomb, she became the first witness of the resurrection, earning her the title of “apostle of the apostles”.
In a patriarchal society where women's voices counted for little, it fell to her to announce the Good News. Her testimony aroused doubt among men. Mary Magdalene, an accomplished disciple who grasped Jesus' universal message, was also his “favourite disciple”. In addition Jesus had always reserved a special place for her, breaking with convention by including women in his spiritual circle. The nature of their special relationship remains a secret garden. Between history and legend, Gospels and apocryphal texts, her image is multiplied into a mosaic of portraits. Personally, I believe that Truth is found in Heaven!
According to Provençal tradition, after evangelising the region, Mary Magdalene retired to the Sainte-Baume cave in Provence. She lived there as a hermit for thirty years.
The walk up to the cave, through a thousand-year-old forest – once the forest of the Druids – where oak, beech and pine trees bear witness to history, is like an inner pilgrimage. I felt as if time had slowed down, as if I had travelled back to another era.
In a spirit of openness, the Dominican friars perpetuate the true tradition of hospitality throughout the year.
In its unspoilt natural setting, Sainte-Baume welcomes everyone with open arms and whispers its message: the strength to stand tall and rely on Hope as your compass.
An icon of the sacred feminine, Mary Magdalene continues to show us the way.
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At the heart of the Sainte-Baume massif in Provence, which stretches for 12 kilometres, lies the sacred cave. This important pilgrimage site is one of the oldest in the Christian world.
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Located at an altitude of 900 metres, the cave – known as Baumo in Provençal – of Sainte-Baume is a sanctuary that has been guarded by the Dominicans since 1295. According to tradition, Mary Magdalene arrived in Provence at Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer and lived there as a hermit for the last thirty years of her life, making this one of the oldest pilgrimage sites in Christianity.
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The climb up the Chemin des Roys, a route through the forest that takes about an hour, has a few steep sections. The effort is commensurate with the location: more than 40 kings and 15 popes have walked this path before us to reach this exceptional sanctuary.
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Since ancient times, the Sainte-Baume forest has been a place of high spirituality. Considered a nemeton — a natural sanctuary for the Celts — it was an important pilgrimage site dedicated to the goddess Isis, where druids consecrated the oak kings. This forest, conducive to contemplation, invites introspection more than ever.
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Halfway up the climb, the fountain at the source of Nans – sacred in Celtic times – offers cool, pure water and a refreshing stop that is much appreciated by pilgrims and hikers alike.
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At Sainte-Baume, the « SILENCE » sign is a double invitation to listen: to the vibrant murmur of the forest and to the more intimate murmur of our inner selves, connecting us to something greater than ourselves.
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150 steps to climb, 150 opportunities to leave the world behind. 150 like the Psalms of Kind David or the Rosary. Each step brings you a little closer to the summit, and a little closer to yourself.
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Entering the cave is like stepping into a cavern that seems suspended in time. Measuring approximately 20 m by 20 m, it maintains a constant temperature of 12°C. A water source causes droplets to form on the ceiling. They fall one by one, from time to time, like a little wink from the heavens.
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In the sacred darkness, the simple act of lighting a candle is part of an unchanging ritual. Without revealing all its mysteries, the cave welcomes what is: silence, peace, and the flickering flame of a Presence.
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In the solemn silence of the cave, a sanctuary is dedicated to mothers who have lost a child. Here, grief is welcomed and memory is honoured. It is a place to lay down the burden of sorrow, receive consolation and leave with a lighter heart. The ex-votos hanging here bear witness to the graces received and the hope that a path to healing is possible. This statue was donated by Monsignor Dupanloup
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On the forecourt of the Grotto, Marthe Spitzer's bronze Pietà - inaugurated on July 6, 1932 - stands guard. A precious gift from the faithful of La Madeleine in Paris.
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Work by Jean-Antoine Houdon (1741–1828), master sculptor of the 18th century. Carved from Carrara marble, it embodies the genius of an artist whose masterpieces shine in the Louvre.
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Created by master glazier Pierre Petit between 1977 and 1983, these stained glass windows illustrate the major stages in the life of Mary Magdalene.
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Moment de recueillement devant le reliquaire de Marie-Madeleine, qui abrite des reliques de la sainte - un fragment de tibia et quelques cheveux - nous venant de la basilique de Saint-Maximin.
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From the cave, the view overlooks the forest, takes in the buildings of L'Hostellerie, built in 1859 by Father Lacordaire, and stretches into the distance towards the mountainous horizon.
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The entrance to the Hostellerie, a Dominican reception centre open to all: individuals and groups are welcome throughout the year.
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Mary Magdalene's gaze follows Christ as he leaves her house in Bethany. This first encounter, immortalised by Frédéric Montenard, adorns the chapel of the Hostellerie.
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Mary Magdalene preaching in the harbour of Marseille. The scene, painted by Frédéric Montenard (d. 1926), illuminates the chapel of the Hostellerie with its message and colours.
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Every day, in the chapel of the Hostellerie, the memory of Mary Magdalene is honoured.
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Medieval accounts relate that angels lifted Mary Magdalene seven times a day above her cave.
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Statue of Mary Magdalene in the lobby of the Hostellerie. The artist depicted her traditional attributes: long, loose hair and the perfume jar.
Photos © Catherine Touaibi